How To Transfer Guitar Plans To Template

How-do-you-do all,
Received my plans today for a hereafter build, I was wondering the best approach to making a template from the plans.
Basically how do I take the plan and cut information technology out of wood? Probably going to use MDF.

Thank you in accelerate Mike

Tue Feb eleven, 2014 5:39 pm

I have found the easiest way to "Copy" the programme onto forest without cut the programme into pieces, is to utilise carbon paper.
Lay the carbon newspaper in between the plan and the wood, and simply trace the pattern onto your wood.
Make sure the programme is taped to the wood in a few places and then it does not slip.

Afterwards that you'll have to use either a band saw or jig saw to cutting out the shape.
I always make two templates. 1 for the full body shape, usually with the control cavity in it, and some other for the pickup routs, and neck pocket.
You may also demand a 3rd template for the control cavity cover if necessary.
The 2nd does not have to have an authentic outer body shape.

Be very conscientious when making your neck pocket template. It is easy to brand information technology besides big.
I use a band saw, then a spindle sander, stopping to check accurateness often.
For the inside cuts start your hole with a drill, and so cut them out with a jig saw.

Exist Sure TO Marking AN ACCURATE Eye LINE ON BOTH!!

Mail by **Gordon Bellerose** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 6:26 pm

Jamie Unden wrote:I usually use spray glue and just mucilage the paper to the MDF and cutting it out in that location.

You lot tin can do it that way if yous don't listen destroying the plan.
If I've paid money for a plan, I endeavor to conserve it if possible.

Another note:
You will probable spend almost as much time building templates for your first guitar, as you will building the guitar!!
Simply once you have a good template, you can utilise it over and over.

Post past **Gordon Bellerose** » Tue Feb 11, 2014 ix:14 pm

Jamie Unden wrote:I propose my customers to make copies, just in case they blow the template on the offset try.

That'southward a good idea too.
Do yous make only i template, or ii, or more than for the same guitar?

I find that if I make a separate template for the pickups and neck pocket, I tin utilise that on different guitars. At to the lowest degree I tin can if the calibration stays the aforementioned.
Consequently I have templates for several unlike style bodies, and I just use the pickup template I want.
I take a HH template, a two P-90 template, and so on.

I also have a few neck templates.

My hard templates include two plates. One for the dorsum that has the control cavity, neck mounting holes, cord holes if they are through-torso, leap cavity if it has a trem, and the torso outline. The other plate has neck pocket, pickups, control mounting holes, bridge mounting holes, and slots if there are carved reliefs.

Post by **Art Davila** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 12:27 am

I go to kinkos and brand 3 copies. I always keep the original and mark it so I know it is the original. You lot know how bad a copy of a re-create tin can get.

Also Jamie are you gearing up to do other projects all the same? we had talked near the billybo and hollowing out the body.

Mail service by **Mike Hall** » Wed Feb 12, 2014 1:02 pm

Wow, speedy reply'south gents. thank you for the info.
I am in talks with someone to brand copies for cut, one in case i drop a bollox 2d would similar to keep original in one slice, but that's non essential.
I was thinking of gluing the program to mdf just i didn't know weather that was a good approach
Similar the carbon paper idea, read that that and thought "O yeah"
Separate template for pick ups and cervix pocket yeah defo doing that.
Merely 2 trunk template really, Body outline with pilot holes for bridge placement, and back outline with a cavity.
The neck will be a hand tools only equally i wanna get slow with that.
I actually bought information technology from you Jamie, accept to say quick international aircraft

Thanks you.
The plans are for an Ibanez Destroyer clone, Materials are uncertain at this point.
Thanks again Mike

Wed Feb 12, 2014 five:44 pm

I had a really hard fourth dimension making the template for my hybrid steinberger, every tiny mistake faithfully translates onto the body. I bandsawed the torso shape about 1/8" beyond the template and used a robosander chucked in my drillpress to cut back to the template. It worked slap-up at following the template, but the 80 grit sanding sleeve left really deep scratches, particularly in endgrain effectually the horns, and then I ended up having to mitt-sand off a lot more than woods than I intended. I used 1/4" masonite for the template, probably should accept doubled information technology up for more bearing surface for the router. I tried to use ane template for everything, large fault. What do you all use to refine the body shape after crude cutting to template? I didn't desire to run a risk chipping out the trunk sides by using a design router fleck.

Jamie makes some really nice plans, got my heart on a bass pattern, but first let'southward meet if I can become through my beginning build with no more screwups.

Wednesday Feb 12, 2014 five:49 pm

Back when I used templates it was actually harry using a router. Once I had the router in a router table, 2" follower bit, and I didn't go close enough with the ring saw. It grabbed agree of the dainty Brazilian redwood Tele blank and pitched information technology across the yard! After that I would use a robosander.

Mail past **Jason Rodgers** » Midweek Feb 12, 2014 9:33 pm

Disc, belt, and oscillating spindle sanders can be used (with practice) to get really proficient border results upward to the line. Sometimes, I like to go the last few g to the line with sanding blocks: they allow you to have very controlled little nibbles or long, gentle sweeps to blend bumps or wiggles. I've done this with 1/iv" hardboard and plexi. Just have your time and be patient.

I've found that thicker material makes a template much easier to piece of work with.
My opinion is that i/iv is too sparse, it does not requite enough side surface for pattern bits or pattern sanding drums.
In fact, I take at present converted all of my templates to three/4 inch material. Peculiarly the pickup / neckpocket templates.
I exercise not have to add extra textile under the template to starting time routing pockets equally I had to using thinner cloth.
The 3/8 or 1/2 inch router bits with a guide begetting is approx. 13/16 from the bottom cutting edge, to the top of the begetting.

Post by **Jamie Unden** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 1:35 pm

Gordon Bellerose wrote:I've establish that thicker cloth makes a template much easier to work with.
My stance is that 1/4 is too thin, it does non give enough side surface for design bits or design sanding drums.
In fact, I accept now converted all of my templates to iii/4 inch material. Especially the pickup / neckpocket templates.
I practice not have to add actress cloth under the template to get-go routing pockets as I had to using thinner cloth.
The 3/eight or one/two inch router bits with a guide begetting is approx. xiii/16 from the bottom cutting border, to the top of the bearing.

I take to hold, just I tin't find any source for 3/eight" MDF and it'southward as well expensive to ship one/2".

Thu February thirteen, 2014 2:59 pm

I use regular three/four inch plywood. Smooth one side, or polish 2 sides if I can go it. MDF is very dusty to piece of work with.
I'm not sure where you live Jamie, but I get a whole 4' x 8' sheet for nigh 35 dollars at my building textile supply store.

Post past **David King** » Thu Feb 13, 2014 7:16 pm

Baltic birch ply for me. I like the 12mm and 20mm stuff. I seem to pickup other folks scraps which price me nothing. Once I get them perfect I soak the edges in sparse CA and scrape them smooth again.

Post by **Gordon Bellerose** » Fri Feb 14, 2014 x:23 am

Alexander Higgins fabricated a very good point above.
QUOTE: "Every little error you've fabricated making your template, faithfully transfers to the guitar."

This is very true. I of the mistakes I made early on, was to not use a piece of plastic tubing on my guide router bit.
The tubing goes over the shank and holds the guide bearing in position. I forgot to put the tubing on, and the result was ruining not only my template, but a beautiful piece of flamed maple.
The part ruined was the cervix pocket, and I ended up having to cut the centre portion out, and using the maple "wings" in another multi-piece trunk.

Sunday February 16, 2014 2:01 pm

Hi

Just a couple of points...

When photocopying plans yous accept to be a bit careful since the copy may come out a tad larger than the original and it'due south worth overlaying the original over the copy and checking, sometimes the baloney more than on one axis than another then be conscientious.

Another practiced trick is that once you've fabricated your template when using a bearing guided router you tin can put record around the template to go far a bit bigger, then remove the record to make a very fine final cut.

How To Transfer Guitar Plans To Template

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